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ปฏิเสธไม่ได้เลยว่า “Flexitarian” หรือ การกินมังสวิรัติแบบยืดหยุ่น เป็นเทรนด์ ที่กำลังมาแรง กลายเป็นกลุ่มตลาดที่น่าจับตามอง และมีโอกาสเติบโตสำหรับอุตสาหกรรมอาหาร ผู้บริโภคกลุ่มนี้เน้นรับประทานอาหารจากพืชเป็นหลัก กินเนื้อสัตว์ให้น้อยที่สุด แต่รับผลิตภัณฑ์จากสัตว์ได้เพื่อให้ได้รับสารอาหารอย่างสมดุล จากเทรนด์นี้เอง ทำให้ผลิตภัณฑ์กลุ่ม plant-based protein เติบโดขึ้นมากภายในเวลาไม่กี่ปี ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่ฮิตติดตลาด ผ่านการวิจัยและพัฒนาจนได้รสชาติและเนื้อสัมผัสที่ใกล้เคียงกับเนื้อสัตว์จริง
มาดูในมุมวิชาการกันบ้าง นักวิจัยจาก University of Padova (อิตาลี) ตีพิมพ์ผลงานวิจัยใน Scientific Reports เมื่อมกราคม 2564 เปรียบเทียบคุณค่าทางโภชนาการในแง่ของปริมาณสารอาหารระหว่างผลิตภัณฑ์เบอร์เกอร์จากเนื้อ (MBB) 4 ยี่ห้อ และเบอร์เกอร์จากพืช (PBB) 3 ยี่ห้อ พบว่า เบอร์เกอร์ทั้งสองชนิดมีปริมาณโปรตีนและไขมันไม่แตกต่างกัน PBB มีแร่ธาตุสำคัญ คือ โพแทสเซียม ซัลเฟอร์ ฟอสฟอรัส แมงกานีส แคลเซียม เหล็ก ทองแดง แมงกานีส และโครเมียม สูงกว่า MBB
แต่ถ้าดูไปถึงชนิดและปริมาณของกรดอะมิโนซึ่งเป็นหน่วยย่อยของโปรตีน พบว่า PBB มีเมไธโอนีน (methionine) ซึ่งเป็นกรดอะมิโนจำเป็น ต่ำกว่า MBB ถึง 21 เท่า ถ้าดูชนิดของกรดไขมันใน PBB พบว่าเบอร์เกอร์ PBB มีกรดไขมันไม่อิ่มตัวเชิงซ้อน (polyunsaturated fatty acids, PUFAs) สูงกว่า MBB โดยเฉพาะกรดไขมันไม่อิ่มตัวชนิดโอเมก้า 6 และมีค่าดัชนีการเกิดภาวะไขมันสะสมในเส้นเลือด (Index of atherogenicity, IA) และ ดัชนีภาวะการเกิดลิ่มเลือด (Index of thrombogenicity, IT) สูงกว่า MBB อย่างมีนัยสำคัญด้วย เป็นเพราะธัญพืช เช่น ถั่วเหลือง ที่มักใช้เป็นแหล่งของ plant-based protein มีกรดไขมันชนิดนี้สูง แต่ขาดกรดอะมิโนจำเป็นบางชนิด โดยเฉพาะเมไธโอนีนนั่นเอง และในอาหาร plant-based meat ก็มักใช้น้ำมันมะพร้าว หรือน้ำมันดอกทานตะวันเป็นส่วนประกอบ ซึ่งน้ำมันกลุ่มนี้มีกรดไขมันอิ่มตัวชนิด C12, C14 และ C16 สูง เมื่อนำค่าดังกล่าวมาใช้ในการคำนวณ IA และ IT จึงได้ค่าสูง อย่างไรก็ตาม PBB มีค่า hypocholesterolemic/hypercholresterolemic fatty acids (h/H) ต่ำกว่า MBB ซึ่งบ่งชี้ว่าชนิดของไขมันใน PBB มีโอกาสเพิ่มระดับคอเลสเตอรอลในเลือดต่ำกว่า MBB นอกจากนี้ ยังพบแคดเมียมและลิเธียมใน PBB ยี่ห้อหนึ่งด้วย ซึ่งนักวิจัยคาดว่าน่าจะปนเปื้อนมาจากดินที่มีโลหะหนักดังกล่าวตกค้าง
ผลการทดลองโดยทั่วไปดูเหมือนว่าเบอร์เกอร์จากพืชนี้จะให้คุณค่าทางโภชนการต่ำกว่าเบอร์เกอร์จากเนื้อวัวปกติ แต่นักวิจัยกลุ่มนี้ระบุว่าค่าดังกล่าวมาจากการคำนวณ ยังต้องศึกษาว่าร่างกายสามารถย่อยและดูดซึมสารอาหารไปใช้ได้ต่างกันหรือไม่ นอกจากนี้ PBB มีข้อดีคือมีใยอาหารสูงกว่า MBB ซึ่งใยอาหารนี้มาจากไฮโดรคอลลอยด์ ที่ใช้เป็นสารช่วยในการขึ้นรูปเบอร์เกอร์พืช ไฮโดรคอลลอยด์นี้ยังช่วยให้ PBB อุ้มน้ำไว้ได้ดี (เสียน้ำในระหว่างการทำให้สุกน้อยกว่า) และให้เนื้อสัมผัสที่นุ่มกว่า MBB ทั้งนี้ นักวิจัยต้องการชี้ให้เห็นว่า การรับประทานอาหาร plant-based meat ไม่ได้จะให้คุณค่างทางโภชนาการที่ดีกว่าการรับประทานผลิตภัณฑ์เนื้อสัตว์เสมอไป ผลิตภัณฑ์ทั้งสองกลุ่มมีข้อดีและข้อด้อยเชิงคุณค่าทางโภชนาการที่แตกต่างกัน ผู้บริโภคควรคำนึงถึงจุดนี้ด้วย
นักวิจัยสรุปว่า PBB ถือเป็นอาหารทางเลือกที่น่าสนใจ ถึงแม้ว่าจะมีกรดอะมิโนจำเป็นและกรดไขมันจำเป็นบางชนิดไม่ครบถ้วน แต่ผู้บริโภคสามารถรับเสริมได้จากอาหารแหล่งอื่น ซึ่ง Flexitarian มีความได้เปรียบ เพราะเทรนด์การบริโภคแบบยืดหยุ่น สามารถรับประทานโปรตีนจากเนื้อสัตว์เพื่อเสริมสารอาหารที่ขาดได้ ทำให้ได้รับสารอาหารครบถ้วน และสมดุล
สามารถอ่านผลงานวิจัยฉบับเต็มได้ที่ https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-81684-9
De Marchi, M., Costa, A., Pozza, M. et al. Detailed characterization of plant-based burgers. Sci Rep 11, 2049 (2021).
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